Ljubljana has one of the youngest, coolest, friendliest, best looking and most fashionable populations I've encountered. Everyone here seems to have been raised or born in the warm light of post-communism. Slovenia is prosperous and forward-thinking. The Hapsburg-era buildings in Ljubljana sparkle in the sunlight, and at night in the lights reflected off the Ljubljanica River.
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It's dusk, that magical transition between blue sky and black night and I'm about to do something few tourists ever get to experience. With a rumbling gurgle from the engine and a bellow from the helmsman, a traditional dhonis pauses where I stand at the end of a jetty, just long enough for me to leap aboard and join its crew of fisherman for a night's catch. It's an ancient scene, one which plays out every night, here in the middle of the Indian Ocean.
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How does one begin to explore a 1,200-year old city comprised of a labyrinth of over 9,000 non-paved alleys? The answer is to be comfortable with being lost. It was easy to lose track of time as we were transported back to the Middle Ages. Pedestrians compete with donkeys, mules, and bicycles in this car-free zone. Streets are crowded as the inhabitants go about their daily business. Interestingly, the chaos has a certain order to it. People are hard at work, spinning silk from the local cactus plant, making shoes, selling traditional medicines and foods like sweets, olives, nuts, dates, vegetables, and meats.
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